What gives one the impetus to isolate yeasts, experiment with, say, cumbersome large barriques, and pursue crafting world-class Sangiovese in a region best known for bulk wine? Probably having regional winemaking in your blood. That’s the sense that one might take away from a visit to Tenuta Casali, in Romagna’s Mercato Saraceno, where Silvia, Francesco and Daniele Casali now work with the previous Casali generation, Valerio and Paolo, who themselves took over in the late 1970s from grandfather Mario, who farmed their alluvial, stony, and white clay soils since the 1940s as a grower. So there are five family members now involved directly, doing all of the normal family-winery stuff while also attempting the aforementioned experimentation/fine-tuning, and yet I got the impression that things were running well enough, and personally did not notice anyone trying to kill one another while I was there… Tenuta Casali sits astride the Savio Valley, which itself sits astride Italy’s Appenine hills in Romagna, with approximately twenty hectares of vines (all but twenty percent of which are devoted to Sangiovese) in effect bordered by Tuscany and the Adriatic. Their vineyard placement – which also enjoys an elevation of between 500 and 800 feet – seems to work some mighty Romagna magic on their Sangio fruit; their reds were some of the best that I tasted during my media trip to the region last year. Not that their whites are slouching, as we’ll get into, well, immediately… 2017 Tenuta Casali Albana Romagna ‘Valleripa’ (Emila-Romagna, $NA) Casali’s Albana is a bit of an extreme, planted at 400 meters on tuffa soils, and it hits the sweet spot between round fullness and fresh minerality. Floral, honeyed, and chock full of ripe stone fruit and brioche action, with impressive balance between a sense of energy and astringency. In other words, much ass is kicked here. 2016 Tenuta Casali ‘Baruccia’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, $23) Juicy, supple, and spicy, this is a red that’s easy to down. Black cherries and plum dominate, but it’s never overly or obnoxiously fruity; in fact, at turns this is fresh and structured in ways that should make many, many Italian wine lovers very, very happy. 2015 Tenuta Casali ‘Quartosole’ Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva (Emilia-Romagna, $NA) The grosso clone is used here, from lower-yielding guyot vines in the white-clay Baruccia vineyard, planted in 1990, with the wine being aged in 20hl wooden vats. You might expect a thoroughly old school, sit-on-it-for-20-years Sangio red, and you’d be wrong. While undoubtedly young, this is gorgeous and perfumed now, with dried herb spiciness, black cherry, mint, and cooked orange peel notes, and a palate that mixes structural grit with a supple juiciness and ample freshness. So, yeah… wow. Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at And Then There Were… Five (Tenuta Casali Recent Releases) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com Source: http://www.1winedude.com/tenuta-casali-recent-releases/
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Overview of Vina VentisqueroVina Ventisquero may not be one of the best known Chilean wineries, but it does have significant market share under its Root: 1 brand. A well-funded winery under the guidance of winemaker Felipe Tosso, this venture began in 1998 and released it’s first wine in 2001. Since then, they have been buying top vineyards across Chile, including significant holdings in the Maipo Valley. While they do produce value brands geared toward the under $10 market, its the wines produced under the “Ventisquero” name that are important to know. Its Enclave bottling is a marque Cabernet Sauvignon that fetches over $75/bottle. They also produce the “Grey” series of wines that are sourced from single blocks of their Trinidad Vineyard in the Maipo Valley. In 2013, rains came early to the region, and the winery opted to not bottle the Enclave Cabernet. Instead, the grapes usually earmarked for the luxury bottling were diverted into the much-lest-expensive Gray Cabernet Sauvignon. The Wine ReviewThis is an atypical style for today’s New World Cabernet Sauvignon: It isn’t a brooding tannic monster. Rather, it’s closer in style to the more reserved Cabernets of Napa Valley circa 1984. Fresh laurel, cardamom, and turmeric on the nose. Medium bodied with crystal-clear blackberry notes and a layer of chocolate, a layer of burnt mint, a layer of allspice, and a layer of graphite. It’s sewn up with round flesh black fruit and mocha-infused licorice. An excellent bottle and unique in the world of cabs. The post Ventisquero 2013 “Grey Glacier” Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia. Source: https://www.vinology.com/ventisquero-2013-grey-glacier-cabernet-sauvignon-maipo-valley/ I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format.
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 11, 2019 from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-11-2019/ Well, that was unexpected. Earlier this week, I was a guest on Connections, a WXXI NPR radio program hosted by my friend (and the guy wholiterally wrote the book on NY Finger Lakes wine) Evan Dawson. Mostly, I just tried not so sound too much like an idiot compared to the show’s (much) more eloquent host and guests (Bob Madill of Kindred Fare, and winemaker August Deimel of Keuka Springs). The part that was most surprising was that the show’s theme centered around the Op-Ed-style piece I penned in mid-February, in which I posited that the wine industry as a whole has fumbled the ball when it comes to attracting the Millennial generation, as evidenced by multiple reports showing that wine in the USA is hemorrhaging those younger consumers and now needs desperately to staunch the bleeding, having failed at the preventive medicine part of hopping generational buying habits. It’s not all gloom-and-doom, of course; the wine biz is very good at some forms of consumer engagement, but I maintain that those forms work best with an older crowd. Our discussion morphed from whether or not wine is losing the battle for younger drinkers, into both broader (wine biz writ-large) and more focused (impacts on the NY FLX wine scene) conversations, and now my minor dream of trying to sound intelligent during one of those super-cool, dignified NPR discussions has finally been realized. You can listen to that show here, or via the embed below (and then make fun of me in the comments). Make sure that you have NPR coffee mug in hand first (but you can, of course, fill it with wine… I’m not gonna judge…). Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Losing Battle? (Talking Wine And Millennial Consumers On NPR) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com Source: http://www.1winedude.com/talking-wine-and-millennial-consumers-on-npr/ In today’s global economy, gastronomy is beyond generalizations. No cuisine can be justly profiled with a list of a few traditional dishes. Like cultures, cuisines evolve, influenced by trends and new ideas. Germany is no stranger to the modern culinary zeitgeist: healthy food, sustainability, simplicity, and purity of flavors its the call to arms. The neue Küche, or new cuisine, is spearheaded by a diverse genus of chefs from across the globe. Germany is now home to a dizzing array of Michelin-starred restaurants, second only to France. Foodwise, Germany can roughly be divided in north and south, cold weather and maritime products are seen in northern food, while warmer weather, as well as French, Swiss and Austrian cultural influences can be found in southern cuisines. Germany has opened its doors to the world in the past few years. Turkish influence in gastronomy abounds. Every major city has döner kebab stalls and Italian pizza has grown deep roots in the country. Russian, Bulgarian and Polish food still permeates, a constant reminder of the Eastern Block. For this article, our German food and wine pairings will focus on classic dishes. We will address Modern German food and wine pairings in a future article. You can also check out our food and wine pairing classes as well. German Fish DishesFish like herring and Alaskan pollock abound in the north, around the city of Hamburg. Seafood flavored with dill, battered fish, pickled white fish, and many other fresh, light dishes are popular. Beer is king in the region, but wine is a fashionable import in these latitudes. If you were to choose wine to pair with northern cuisine, you would have to choose a light white wine with bright acidity and assertive minerality. Champagne, Chablis or Sancerre are hard to beat, and national dry Rieslings, Chardonnays or modern crossings like Rivaner (Muller Thurgau) will work well. Sausages (of course)We can’t talk about German food without mentioning its sausages. More than 1000 styles are produced in the country and are enjoyed at all hours. Colors, sizes, and flavor vary greatly. Bratwurst, currywurst, blutwurst, and weiβwurst are similar just for the name. Grilled or boiled, made out of pork or veal, they are popular as snacks and as part of the main meal. Again, styles of beer have evolved through time to pair local specialties, but a full-bodied white wine or a light red will pair nicely too. Consider the cooking method and the accompanying sauces to increase accuracy. Rheinischer SauerbratenThe Rheinischer Sauerbraten is a common dish throughout the country. This meat stew consists of veal marinated in vinegar layered with spices and herbs. The mixture is cooked slow and low. The resulting hearty dish is intense, flavorful and sour. Red wine, especially with high acidity can tackle the local specialty successfully. German red wine is improving every year and is worthy of consideration. Pinot Noir is the most planted red grape and produces light-bodied wines with an often-piercing acidity. Rinderroulade is rolled veal meat common in Germany and Austria. It’s filled with ground meat, onions, pickles, or vegetables with many variations. A rich sauce keeps the meat moist and potatoes or cabbage are served on the side. This dish is bold enough to take a medium-bodied red wine like Merlot or Montepulciano. Käsespätzle is a starchy dish of Alpine influence. The handmade spätzle pasta grated with cheese is unctuous and filling. These types of dish, along with others like Kartoffelknödel, potato dumplings go well with wheat beer or full-bodied, lactic white wine like Burgundy. Wiener SchnitzelThe wiener schnitzel, a breaded thin pork cutlet, is part of many European cuisines. It is a classic in southern Germany. The tender, comforting dish can pair well with light white wines like Austrian or German Rieslings, Grüner Veltliner or Pinot Grigio. The dish will also work with light-bodied reds like Gamay, Pinot Noir, Schiava or Dornfelder. Weiβbeer is obviously good too. SidesApple sauce, a common side dish, can add sweetness to the meal, and its tart sweetness might enable off-dry white wines like some Rieslings. Sauerkraut is another common side dish on the Dutch table. The fermented slaw adds vinegary acidity to any meal, making it compatible with tart wine styles. Malolactic tones developed in sauerkraut can be mirrored in oak aged whites too. DessertsGermany is well known for its pastries and luscious desserts. The Schwarzwald torte, or Black Forest cake is amongst the most popular. The deep flavor of chocolate and the tangy kirsch makes it a good pairing with Port or any other acute sweet wine. A Final Thought on German Wine & Food PairingsGermany has lots to offer to the table, its traditional cuisine is rustic and distinct. Their wines are restricted by merciful weather and not all styles are possible. This is a lesson on restraint; of delicate pairings. German food and wine pairings have to be precise and can only be mastered by dedicated Sommeliers with acute, sober, straightforward focus. The results can be as refined as a classic French dinner. The post German Food and Wine Pairings appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia. Source: https://www.vinology.com/german-food-and-wine-pairings/ “The soil is like a puzzle.” When Fattoria Zerbina matriarch Cristina Geminiani talks about her Faenza area vineyards in Italy’s Romagna, she gives the distinct impressions that a) she knows what she is doing, and, b) isn’t prepared to take any sh*t about it. At least, that’s the sense that I got when I got my feet into Zerbina’s 32 hectares of red clay and limestone soils during a recent press jaunt. Geminiani took over the reins of the family wine business (established in the `60s by her grandfather) in 1987, having studied at both the University of Milan and the University of Bordeaux. Geminiani’s “puzzle” necessitates a pasticcio approach to crafting wine in this case, primarily from Romagna’s Sangiovese and Albana grapes) – combinations of alberello, gobelet, and trellised vine training, and often different pickings (sometimes within the same plots). Zerbina’s proximity to nearby rivers means that their Albana is prone to noble rot, which Geminiani understandably has totally run with for their passito wine, given her experience in Bordeaux. Anyway… enough of my yappin’, let’s boogie… 2017 Fattoria Zerbina Bianco di Ceparano (Albana di Romagna Secco, $13) Albana is Romagna’s other grape, the name being a Latin reference to the fruit’s whitish color. Interestingly, Albana from the region achieved DOCG status way back in 1987, which, this being Italy and all, I can only assume had deeply political origins. Zerbina didn’t get into Albana until 2008, but they have caught up quickly. An earlier harvest gives this a lifted, mineral, perky presentation, with a clean, crisp, clear, and linear mouthfeel. Tropcial fruits move on to stone fruit, fresh citrus, and then wet stone, all of it subtle and impeccably balanced. 2017 Fattoria Zerbina Ceregio Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, $20) Made from the grosso Sangio clone, this is all crowd-pleasing, early-drinking delight; bright, fresh, with plenty of the cherry fruit after which it’s named. Hints of herbs and tobacco add nuance to the friendly proceedings. 2015 Fattoria Zerbina Pietramora Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva (Emilia-Romagna, $NA) The vines that go into Zerbina’s flagship Sangio produce small berries with thick skins, a fact that permeates everything about this leathery, herbal, mineral red that aims for structure over overt opulence. Black cherries, juicy red plums, orange peel, and overarching freshness all combine to make you want to invent a time machine to be able to immediately see what this will become in several years time. 2014 Fattoria Zerbina AR Passito Riserva (Albana di Romagna, $NA) I don’t know exactly how much this little wonder would fetch in the states per bottle, but it won’t be cheap, of that I can assure you. Single berry selection is used here to pick the best of their noble rot-infected Albana grapes, resulting in a concentrated, potent 300 g/l of sugar. Sultana, biscuit, honey blossom, candied lemons… this is fresh, luxuriant, balanced, and stunning. Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Puzzle Master (Fattoria Zerbina Recent Releases) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com Source: http://www.1winedude.com/fattoria-zerbina-recent-releases/ Zenato OverviewAlberto Zenato is the kind of guy who spends a day at a tiny Canadian winery because the elderly winemaker --a stranger with terminal cancer— loves his wines. Alberto is a second-generation winemaker, taking the reigns from his father Sergio in 2008. The winery gained fame for its modern take on the classic Amarone Della Valpolicella in the 90’s. However, the winery did not begin making powerful red wines. When it founded in the ’60s, the wineries output was Trebbiano di Lugana, a local white varietal. Wine ReviewThis is not the first time I’ve reviewed a Zenato Ripassa, but that was over seven years ago. I think the world is ready for another. On the nose, bitter chocolate and almond frame layers of extracted fruit, almost rasinated in its depth. Oak notes come forward quickly, with vanilla and whiskey lactones right glossing over the deep dark plums and blueberries. A note of jasmine and tobacco rise into the finish with a note of orange zest and tobacco in the finish. Full bodied with a medium level of acidity. The post Zenato 2015 Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia. Source: https://www.vinology.com/zenato-2015-ripassa-valpolicella-superiore/ I taste a bunch-o-wine (technical term for more than most people). So each week, I share some of my wine reviews (mostly from samples) and tasting notes in a “mini-review” format.
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Wine Reviews: Weekly Mini Round-Up For March 4, 2019 from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com Source: http://www.1winedude.com/wine-reviews-weekly-mini-round-up-for-march-4-2019/
The post Wine School Newsletter #2736 appeared first on Wine School of Philadelphia. Source: https://www.vinology.com/wine-school-newsletter-march-2019/ “Romagna had to fight a lot – and still has to fight a lot.” So mentioned Alessandro Fiore – who, along with brother Claudio, oversee wine production of Castelluccio, one of their family’s three winery operations – recognizes the oddly ironic state of Romagna wine. On the one hand, by most measures this hilly, picturesque northen-Italian area near Bolgna is synonymous with what we in the USA consider to be Italian food. Romagna is the birthplace of Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, lasagne, tagliatelle, tortellini, and prosciutto. On the other hand, Romagna is not synonymous with fine Italian wine, having spent decades churning out juice for the bulk market. But there are several smaller Romagna wine producers who are engaged in fighting the good fight to elevate the region’s craft, including Modigliana’s Castelluccio, nestled in what the Fiore brothers call “ancient Tuscany” (where I visited on a press jaunt back in November). While they might look more like members of early Jethro Tull, the Fiore brothers know that the struggle for Romagna wine recognition is very, very real. Their father, Vittorio Fiore, acquired the majority of their fourteen Romagna hectares of land over several years, and has been focused on quality wine production from their marl and limestone soils since the 1970s. They made a splash early on by producing a regional Sauvignon Blanc (“which at first was not very good” remarked Alessandro) in an area better known for Sangiovese… That Romagna could produce excellent wine shouldn’t be all that surprising (and with the Fiores, I tasted several, including their neighbor Torre San Martino’s stellar ‘Vigna 1922’ Sangiovese Riserva), given that the Adriatic is a mere 30 kilometers away (leading Alessandro to mention that “the hill is always kissed by the sea breeze,” which you’ll have to imagine spoken in a lyrical Italian accent). Fresh, cold air from the Alps also influences the growing area, and the result is, according to the Fiore bros., “more elegance, finesse, and more bouquet” in their Sangio than can be found in the African-climate-influenced grapes grown further south in Tuscany. This pair of Castelluccio sippers are making an especially good case for Romagna’s Sangiovese good fight: 2017 Castelluccio ‘Le More’ Sangiovese di Romagna (Emilia-Romagna, $13) The Fiores have been making the all-stainless-steel Le More since the early 1990s. This is lovely, lively stuff, with juicy red plum flavors, bright berry aromas tinged with herbs, and enough vibrancy to light up a dark room. Having said that, it also has juuuuuust enough hint of structure to make you want to immediately start cooking burgers on the grill. 2012 Castelluccio Ronco dei Ciliegi Forli Rosso (Emilia-Romagna, $28) This is single-vineyard, 100% Sangiovese that’s aged in 350 liter French Oak tonneau for a year, then in bottle for nearly another year. Older vines are used, and it’s considered one of the first “Super Romagna” Sangios, having first been released in the 1980s. Fresh, juicy, spicy, and lifted, there are plums of nearly every stripe evoked here, along with wood spices, leather, graphite, orange peel, and finish that is both quite long and very, very elegant. If a wine like this doesn’t punch you in the head with the realization that the Romagna fine wine Sangiovese fight is worth fighting, then you probably ought to be literally punched in the head… Cheers!
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Copyright © 2016. Originally at Fight The Good Fight (Castelluccio Romagna Recent Releases) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com Source: http://www.1winedude.com/castellucio-romagna-recent-releases/ |
Linda JohnsonGifted in analyzing carp in Naples, FL. Had a brief career developing strategies for fatback in Washington, DC. Prior to my current job I was deploying clip-on ties in Nigeria. Have a strong interest in lecturing about pogo sticks in the financial sector. Crossed the country building cod in Atlantic City, NJ. Spent 2002-2008 lecturing about shaving cream in Fort Walton Beach, FL. ArchivesNo Archives Categories |